First Foamie Built -- F22

[19000rpm]

I like that paint job too

The nose in to the left sounds like excessive prop torque from too much power on launch and the trim off a bit too. Also make sure you've got the prop on right.

sol may be behind, but I've got the foam and haven't cut it yet.

I ended up starting the Eflite Enticement today since I've had it longer than the F22 foam.

[BTCat]

Mar 7, 2010 17:11:34 GMT -6 akent said:

Paint? Let's see I used scraps and leftovers of rattle cans. I used the fluorescent and different colors top and bottom for exactly the reason you stated -- orientation. The thing almost glows in natural light. Interesting thing about the EPP. It is so porous that if you spray at an extreme angle, almost parallel to the surface, it fills one side of the pores. If you spray the opposite angle with a different color it fills the other side of the pore. It actually changes color with the angle. Cool

I got the HXT-900s for the ailerons on my Super Cub, but decided to use them on the foamie. The work great so far.

That is some very interesting info on angle painting! I'll try that on the next one! Very cool! I need to go pick up some of that fluorescent paint for my new one. That is too cool looking!

You know, lots of folks have said that many paints eat these foams. I have tried several different types of rattle can paints and I have found nothing that bothers any of it at all! It makes ya wonder.

Yeah for around $3, those HXT900s are amazing. They should not be confused with the Towerpro SG90 though. The Towerpro's are junk and even cost more!

That motor you have sure sounds interesting. Higher KV and about half the cost of the ones I am running... Who'd a thunk you could buy a reasonable brushless motor for 5 bucks! And hardened replacement shafts available from your heli spare parts bucket!
Kent

I tried every type of paint I had. Several I would have sworn would eat the foam. None even softened the EPP. I even sprayed a piece down with high gloss lacquer paint. I soaked a piece in brake parts cleaner. No problems. I waw sure the parts cleaner would eat it. Depron would be another story, I think.

[Solitaire]

I looked at BT's link to his motor yesterday. The blue table in the link that has the various props and LiPo combinations is something these guys should do for all their motors. It would sure take a lot of the guesswork out of choosing a power plant.

[BTCat]

Sol, I didn't see that the other day. It appears as nothing but a bunch of dark blue rectangles. I highlighted it and then I could see the text. You're right, it would be nice to have this on all the motors.

[BTCat]

Well, It flies, sort of. I found a fatal flaw, though --- besides my skill level ;D. The flexible linkage wire I used isn't able push the elavons well enough, I don't believe. It turns down just fine, just not up very well. Somehow, that can be a problem when the goal is up I need to replace the linkage. In the meantime, I need to glue the area that popped loose.

Good plane, but I need to start with a tamer one.

[19000rpm]

Yep, if the wire is too thin it flexes.

Besides going to thicker wire you can make a couple of guides placed at intervals along the rods. Either that or find some long shrink and add that to the wire. Last thought would be to wrap the wire with tape and epoxy it.

You may be right in taking a step back. The F22 wouldn't be my idea of a first or second plane. Build an EPP Yak or Edge. They are really slow flyers andy easy to learn on.

[BTCat]

19, I had some time on my hands, couldn't find any solvent to remove it, so I used it to play with the F22. I made a couple of guides for each linkage and it made a world of differance. I still don't have the skill to fly it, but I think I would have had much better luck if I had thought of this in the first play.

Patched the nose and a few other areas and set my CG a little further back. I gave it a couple of hover tests in the yard. Basically brought the throttle up enough to make it hover a little with me holding the nose. Let go of it a few times to see what it would do. I think it is much more controllable.

BTW, the motor thrust has this thing spinning while at a hover. Is there any need to get rid of that or trim it out somehow?

[Solitaire]

Two things that I can think of.

If it's slow spin, give it a little opposite aileron.

If it's a torque spin, less pitch on the prop. You'll still need some aileron to keep it straight.

[BTCat]

I'll try another prop. I'm pretty sure it is torque spin. I played with the elevon trim a little and manually tried to stop the spin, but no real luck.

This is academic until I actually put the thing in the air

[Solitaire]

At least yours is built

[19000rpm]

Mar 17, 2010 18:19:26 GMT -6 BTCat said:

19, I had some time on my hands, couldn't find any solvent to remove it, so I used it to play with the F22. I made a couple of guides for each linkage and it made a world of differance. I still don't have the skill to fly it, but I think I would have had much better luck if I had thought of this in the first play.

Patched the nose and a few other areas and set my CG a little further back. I gave it a couple of hover tests in the yard. Basically brought the throttle up enough to make it hover a little with me holding the nose. Let go of it a few times to see what it would do. I think it is much more controllable.

BTW, the motor thrust has this thing spinning while at a hover. Is there any need to get rid of that or trim it out somehow?

Definitely torque roll if it's spinning by itself in a hover at less than 80% throttle. That's part of the reason it augered in left and nose down even if you had the CG right. The plane didn't have enough flying speed (too light a toss and/or too great and angle) and the prop torque turned it left into the ground. Not having a stiff control rod would mitigate any up elevon you might have given it too. Mysteries solved... I hope.

First: You want to reduce the prop pitch a bit if you're getting torque roll at less than 80% throttle. Second: I'd suggest a firm underhanded launch at about 75-80% throttle at a 10 degree angle and just slightly to the right. Third: No need to trim at this point as long as your CG is a tad nose heavy and the elevons are parallel with the wing.

As you get this thing flying you can move your CG back to neutral and as you get used to flying it move it even farther back for better high alpha and maybe add some pitch back too.

[akent]

Good recommendations, 19k!

BT, you'll get it! I think tinkering to get it flying well is half the fun of these things! You'll learn a lot, too.

Oh, and if you put a layer of packing tape along the bottom of the fuselage, that will keep the foam from getting scratched up.
Kent

[BTCat]

I'll add a little packing tape. This thing got a complete nose job yesterday. Amputated the old and hotglued on a new. Looks to pretty to nose in now.

[19000rpm]

Mar 18, 2010 14:16:43 GMT -6 BTCat said:

I'll add a little packing tape. This thing got a complete nose job yesterday. Amputated the old and hotglued on a new. Looks to pretty to nose in now.

Man's second best repair friend is is packing tape I want to hear that new nose has got a smile under it after your next flight. ;D

[akent]

I'm trying to understand how you could bugger up the nose of that, without a heli's rotor blades doing the damage?