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Post by mightyxxwhitey on Apr 13, 2009 13:14:23 GMT -6
I just wanted to share with everyone my FP rotor head stiffing mod. I did this because the head would flex slightly on my HB and it would cause vibration. A metal Rotor head will correct it, but for those of you who dont want the metal head, this mod will work. There is no flex. OK 1st this I bought 2 of these. got an extra for my falcon www.aero-fever.net/product_info.php?cPath=20_30&products_id=721rotor head, and stiffing plate. The plate comes with two flat spacers that go between the rotor head and plate.  4-40 1/2" screws with same size lock washers, #6s washers  I had to use a 7/64 drill to drill out the plate holes and rotor head. Finished product.    |
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Dlan
First 30 Member 
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Post by Dlan on Apr 13, 2009 13:26:53 GMT -6
@ $25 I hope that works for you. I don't remember where but I think
somebidy tried a similar mod with popsickle sticks, but I think they only
went on top of head, your mod sandwhiches the head so might work
better.
Dlan
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Post by Solitaire on Apr 13, 2009 13:35:25 GMT -6
You're looking at Hong Kong dollars Dlan. Click the currency box at the lower left. It's actually $3.25 USD.  I got one of these a long time ago, whitey, for one of my Bees. Couldn't figure out how it attached as the holes were too small. I guess the drill takes care of that eh?  |
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Post by mightyxxwhitey on Apr 13, 2009 14:33:20 GMT -6
You're looking at Hong Kong dollars Dlan. Click the currency box at the lower left. It's actually $3.25 USD. I got one of these a long time ago, whitey, for one of my Bees. Couldn't figure out how it attached as the holes were too small. I guess the drill takes care of that eh? I had a hard time at first, but said F it and took the drill out. ;D It works great. powered it up and the blades spin real smooth. Had it up like 4', tried it again and hit a curb and broke the rotor head core, AGAIN!!! it keeps breaking form the slightest hit. Well not actually breaking, but the plastic splits. It breaks like every other flight. Time for the metal. |
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Raygun
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FIRST 30 MEMBER
The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few
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Post by Raygun on Apr 13, 2009 15:12:31 GMT -6
One of my first heli's had a head just like that I mixed up some plastic epoxy and filled all the voids in between all the criss cross bracing then I put a thin piece of plastic on top and shaped it and redrilled the holes, it never broke again ... Other parts did... Ray
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Post by Dave on Apr 13, 2009 16:04:52 GMT -6
Being an old aircraft mechanic the only thing I see that you might want to change is the length of the screw. They have always taught that you need to have a min. of 1 1/2 threads past the nut. I guess this is so you can tell if the nut/screw is backing out.
Dave
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Post by Dave on Apr 13, 2009 16:09:03 GMT -6
Plus I now see that the nuts have the plastic inserts, sure they have another proper name can't remember it, but you want to make sure the bolt gets into this and these also help to prevent the bolt from backing out.
Dave
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Raygun
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FIRST 30 MEMBER
The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few
Posts: 1,567
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Post by Raygun on Apr 13, 2009 16:15:30 GMT -6
Those are aircraft locking nuts the one and a half threads is a good guide to follow that usually is the maximum amount the diameter of the bolt threads can hold in shear strength. Ray
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Post by Solitaire on Apr 13, 2009 16:35:30 GMT -6
Plus I now see that the nuts have the plastic inserts, sure they have another proper name can't remember it, but you want to make sure the bolt gets into this and these also help to prevent the bolt from backing out. Dave You mean "locknuts"? Or in some circles, "nylocks" |
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Post by Dave on Apr 13, 2009 20:45:05 GMT -6
Thank you Ray you would be correct if mmory serves me right.
Any thank you Sol nylocks is the word I was looking for.
Dave
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