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Post by r/c basher on Mar 13, 2010 21:52:37 GMT -6
I went to my lhs today and bought some deans ultra plugs. Should I put them on my super cub or should I leave the stock ones on? Then I could use my g2 and super cub battery with each other.
Also do you have any suggestions before I solder on deans connectors for the first time? Ive soldered before but not deans connectors. Thanks.
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Post by dubehigh on Mar 13, 2010 22:52:19 GMT -6
i switched mine over as soon as i got it. i run the deans on them all.
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Post by Solitaire on Mar 13, 2010 23:40:35 GMT -6
Here's a link to a video on soldering Deans, basher. It's from the Finless collection at HeliFreak. Second from last in the "Basics" listings. www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692The key is to get your shrinkwrap on BEFORE you start soldering.
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BTCat
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Post by BTCat on Mar 14, 2010 6:53:46 GMT -6
Basher, my tip for Deans is to watch your heat. Too much heat and the connector distorts. Yes, this is the voice of experience.
I changed my SC to allow me to use my full arsonal of batteries.
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19000rpm
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Post by 19000rpm on Mar 14, 2010 8:17:59 GMT -6
This is a good time to standardize your connectors r/c.
1) Make sure you've got some device to hold the deans so it doesn't move around. 2) Have your shrink on the wires and far from the heat source. 3) Tin both the wires and the contacts on the deans well. 4) Use plenty of flux when you do the solder joint and a minimum of additional solder. If you tin both spots well enough you shouldn't need any more than a touch of additional solder if any at all. 5) Don't overheat the Deans. Keep the solder tip as far from the Deans case as possible. To keep the connector from overheating I put the iron tip between the Deans and the wire so they both heat up at the same time and when the solder starts to flow on both pull the tip back. 6) Wipe any additional flux of the wire and connectors. 7) Shrink the wrap with either your soldering iron or Mom's hairdrier. ;D
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Post by dubehigh on Mar 14, 2010 9:28:02 GMT -6
what 19000 said, good job
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Post by r/c basher on Mar 14, 2010 10:46:32 GMT -6
Thanks everyone for the tips. Thanks for the link Solitaire, but you have to be a member of hf to watch the videos. I found some other helpful videos on youtube. Thanks 19k for explaining it all step by step. Ive got a helping hand that has helped alot with soldering. Thanks Bt for the tip on the heat. And thanks Dube for being the first to reply. Ill try soldering them on today.
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19000rpm
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Post by 19000rpm on Mar 14, 2010 13:52:00 GMT -6
Thanks everyone for the tips. Thanks for the link Solitaire, but you have to be a member of hf to watch the videos. I found some other helpful videos on youtube. Thanks 19k for explaining it all step by step. Ive got a helping hand that has helped alot with soldering. Thanks Bt for the tip on the heat. And thanks Dube for being the first to reply. Ill try soldering them on today. Good to hear you have a helping hand. I could have saved a bundle on the third arm I had grafted to my chest if I'd bought one of those. ;D
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Post by r/c basher on Mar 14, 2010 14:13:33 GMT -6
Thanks everyone for the tips. Thanks for the link Solitaire, but you have to be a member of hf to watch the videos. I found some other helpful videos on youtube. Thanks 19k for explaining it all step by step. Ive got a helping hand that has helped alot with soldering. Thanks Bt for the tip on the heat. And thanks Dube for being the first to reply. Ill try soldering them on today. Good to hear you have a helping hand. I could have saved a bundle on the third arm I had grafted to my chest if I'd bought one of those. ;D ;D Well I converted the connectors to deans on my g2 and sc. Soldering on deans were alot easier than what I thought they would be. When I tried them in my g2 after a second of moving the servos around the aileron servo stopped working. I felt the case of it and it was really hot. I guess Ill need a new one. Could I use one of my hbfp 8 gram digital servos in my g2? Or would I have to replace the aileron servo and elevator servo with the same servo so they would match?
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Post by Solitaire on Mar 14, 2010 14:25:08 GMT -6
You could use the Esky servo on the G2 in a pinch if it fits the opening. They aren't a particularly strong servo, but they use them on the Belt CP. You may have to use servo reversing to get them to travel in the right direction, but I can't say for sure.
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Post by r/c basher on Mar 15, 2010 15:08:06 GMT -6
You could use the Esky servo on the G2 in a pinch if it fits the opening. They aren't a particularly strong servo, but they use them on the Belt CP. You may have to use servo reversing to get them to travel in the right direction, but I can't say for sure. Thanks Solitaire. I think Ill use them until I can get replacements.
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Post by Gabe on Mar 15, 2010 17:57:20 GMT -6
Yeah, I mix and match my servos on the 450 all the time. The 8 or 9g servos are all interchangeable. Unless you are doing some serious 3D, you probably won't notice a difference.
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19000rpm
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Post by 19000rpm on Mar 16, 2010 7:47:33 GMT -6
A good point Gabe. Some guys get real anal about matching servos. If the speed, range, torque and size are the same then they are virtually the same even if they come from different manufacturers.
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Post by scarface26 on Mar 16, 2010 8:14:49 GMT -6
I've heard several people rave about "Anderson Power Poles" for use as connectors. They are supposed to be easier to use than Deans and can be crimped rather than soldered. Has anyone had any first hand experience with them?
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19000rpm
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Post by 19000rpm on Mar 16, 2010 14:09:05 GMT -6
I've heard several people rave about "Anderson Power Poles" for use as connectors. They are supposed to be easier to use than Deans and can be crimped rather than soldered. Has anyone had any first hand experience with them? No, and I've seen the raves too. I'm also interested to know, but I'm commited to the Deans because of the sheer number of them I have. ;D
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