|
|
Post by captjay08 on Sept 2, 2010 16:01:39 GMT -6
One more question to you guys. I'm just a newbie in r/c helis and I'm just wondering if we have to upgrade our flybars? Mine is not that straight anymore because of the crashes I had the first couple of days I got the Big Lama. Should I just buy a stock replacement for it? I'm just doing some research online and came across with this flybar. www.rcline.tv/photo/1579/skytec-flybar---die-eigentlichen-paddelstangen-2I'm open to your suggestions... Thanks |
|
|
|
Post by Solitaire on Sept 2, 2010 16:28:50 GMT -6
Depends on how much you want to pay for a flybar/stabilizer. A shortened stabilizer will make your cyclic more responsive and a slightly less chance of blade strike. You can also make your own adjustable stabilizer out of a stock one. Just slide the rubber weights up the shaft and cut off the hook. Then use 2mm collars to hold the rubber pieces in place. You can then shorten the stab to taste. This one is shortened to 230mm overall.  |
|
|
|
Post by captjay08 on Sept 2, 2010 17:33:09 GMT -6
Solitaire, are you just using a stock flybar? And does having 2 pushrod/control link in the flybar help? What does it do? Sorry, newbie question...
|
|
|
|
Post by Solitaire on Sept 2, 2010 18:31:24 GMT -6
You really don't need the second link, but I feel there is a bit more stability. Unproven, I may add, from what I've read. Just a personal observation.
It's a stock stabilizer with a second link stolen off another.
|
|
svdl
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 33
|
Post by svdl on Sept 7, 2010 14:04:57 GMT -6
Good day guys.
I dropped my Esky radio this evining. since then, when I turn it on the servo that makes it go forward and backwards does not work, when i start up, it goes it the down point and makes a buzzing sound and stays there, there is nothing wrong with the servo, so it must be in the remote, what do I do now?? I opened the remote but I cant see anything wrong??!! Any ideas???
|
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 9, 2010 7:36:25 GMT -6
Hello all,
I'm a beginner with an Esky Big Lama, which I'm currently crashing more than I'm flying! I came across this thread when searching for hints on removing my inner/A shaft.
I recently broke the plastic bit at the top of the inner shaft which holds the flybar in place. I've ordered a replacement A shaft and, perhaps prematurely, started taking things apart ready for its replacement. I assumed that the big cog wheel (gear A, I believe) at the bottom needed to be detached, but after unscrewing the tiny grub screw in it and removing it (with some difficulty) I'm having trouble getting the inner shaft up through the outer shaft.
I don't want to force anything and risk breaking it. Am I removing the inner shaft correctly or should I be unscrewing it somewhere else?
Thanks,
David
|
|
Raygun
Moderator 
FIRST 30 MEMBER
The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few
Posts: 1,567
|
Post by Raygun on Sept 9, 2010 9:46:23 GMT -6
You may have to sand the innner shaft a bit with some fine sand paper a edge has developed from the lock screw that needs to be knock down for it to slide through easy. Ray
|
|
Raygun
Moderator
FIRST 30 MEMBER
The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few
Posts: 1,567
|
Post by Raygun on Sept 9, 2010 9:50:40 GMT -6
Good day guys. I dropped my Esky radio this evining. since then, when I turn it on the servo that makes it go forward and backwards does not work, when i start up, it goes it the down point and makes a buzzing sound and stays there, there is nothing wrong with the servo, so it must be in the remote, what do I do now?? I opened the remote but I cant see anything wrong??!! Any ideas??? Open up the radio again and look at the (pot) that controls that servo and look for any damage there if not the wires examine the pot very close for any sign of damage compared to the working ones. If not move on to the circuit board look very close for any cracks or breaks in the board.. Ray |
|
|
|
Post by Solitaire on Sept 9, 2010 10:30:13 GMT -6
...I don't want to force anything and risk breaking it. Am I removing the inner shaft correctly or should I be unscrewing it somewhere else? Thanks, David Once the lower gear is off, the whole top assy (blades/stabilizer and inner shaft) should slide up through the outer shaft. A slight tap on the bottom of the shaft should break it loose. It has two bearings to slide through. One at the outer shaft gear and one at the collar at the top. Usually the collar/upper bearing comes off with the top assy. |
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 9, 2010 13:32:06 GMT -6
You may have to sand the innner shaft a bit with some fine sand paper a edge has developed from the lock screw that needs to be knock down for it to slide through easy. Ray Thanks, Ray - that seems very likely. It is the point at which the flattened bit at the bottom of the inner shaft (where the grub screw held it into the gear) approaches the outer shaft gear that it seems to get stuck. I'll try sanding it and see if I can get it out after that... David |
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 9, 2010 13:37:18 GMT -6
...I don't want to force anything and risk breaking it. Am I removing the inner shaft correctly or should I be unscrewing it somewhere else? Thanks, David Once the lower gear is off, the whole top assy (blades/stabilizer and inner shaft) should slide up through the outer shaft. A slight tap on the bottom of the shaft should break it loose. It has two bearings to slide through. One at the outer shaft gear and one at the collar at the top. Usually the collar/upper bearing comes off with the top assy. That makes sense, thanks. I've detached the top assembly (as I have the original body and so needed to remove blades & stabilizer in order to remove it). I think it's the outer shaft gear bearing which it is currently sticking at. I'll try sanding it as Ray suggested and see if it goes through more easily. Regards, David |
|
|
|
Post by Solitaire on Sept 9, 2010 19:01:14 GMT -6
While you have it all apart, maybe run some TriFlow lubricant (or similar) through the power train.
|
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 10, 2010 0:33:57 GMT -6
Would any general purpose lubricant do (e.g. WD40), or is TriFlow better?
I'm thinking of replacing the outer shaft at the same time, as my heli has a lot of wobble. I assume this detatches at its gear too and pulls upwards, or are there other things I should be aware of? What happens to the various bearings - do they stay in place?
Thanks,
David
|
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 10, 2010 4:21:23 GMT -6
My spares have arrived - excellent service from RTF Electric again (and the best prices I've found). I now see that I was missing a small plastic part at the top of my inner shaft which was supposed to hold the flybar in place more firmly. I hadn't noticed I'd lost that when my first flybar became detached... oops! :-)
|
|
davidm
NEWBIE MEMBER
Posts: 12
|
Post by davidm on Sept 11, 2010 7:41:11 GMT -6
After much ineffective sanding and filing (those inner shafts are hard!), I gave up and tapped it through with a hammer (good call, Solitaire). I'm sure sanding would have worked if I'd had the right paper.
I tried to replace the outer shaft while I was there, but I couldn't get it out. It wouldn't slide down because the screw holes where the lower blade holder attached wouldn't slide through the swashplate. I couldn't get the gear to detach in order to slide it upwards. I was always concerned (on examining the gear) that I'd have trouble extracting the bearing from it - and my replacement outer shaft and gear didn't seem to come with its own bearing.
So, just inner shaft, flybar and broken blades replaced this time. The helicopter still has some wobble (and I think would benefit from a new outer shaft), but there's much less vibration than there was before - and most importantly, I can fly it again!
Thank you, all, for your help and advice - it's very useful being able to ask stupid questions to experts!
Cheers,
David
|
|
