First things first... This is a build with major modifications in order to stuff an over-sized engine (DLE 20) into the frame. The DLE 20 is double the power that the manufacturer calls for. This is not a build you'll want to follow if you want to go EP or Glow. While there may be some parts of the build that you can use no matter what power plant you use, you could do yourself a disservice by following the the build exactly only to find out you didn't have to do some of the modifications. i.e. I use a 4100mAH 2S Life battery and it's aft of the CG to counteract the weight of the DLE 20. You probably don't want to do that for either EP or Glow....
Here are links to two very good builds. One is EP the other is Glow:
Glow:
www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1145Electric Powered:
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1070957 In this build there are pictures that show the plane flying, and the landing gear swept back towards the tail. While this may work for an EP build, it doesn't work very well for the DLE build.
Reactor Bipe w/ DLE 20 Build
I said in the opening post that I was going to go strictly by the manual. Well that changed because there's no way to go by the manual and install the engine I installed. The suggested two stroke engine for this plane is a .61 (10cc). I happened to have a DLE 20 (20cc) that I was going to use in another project, but decided to use it in this instead (see post #1). This wasn't going to happen without reinforcing the firewall, and changing the position of the blind nuts used to hold the engine/mount. Also, I have a small space to work in and I had to skip around so I could get most of the plane finished in one area before I installed the wings.
If I went by the manual I would have to contend with the bottom wing, tail, and the electronics that would need to be covered. If you have limited space to work in, it might be a good idea to get your engine installation, gas tank plumbing and electronics installation done before you start installing control surfaces. My work area is a notched out little corner of our 2nd garage that we converted into a man cave. I had to be very careful not to poke holes in the Monokote.
I said in the first post that the manual was one of the best I've worked with, well, I'd like to amend that a bit. While it covers in detail many things, it totally leaves out sections of the build that are crucial. It shows you how to install your hinges in great detail, but totally leaves you guessing when it comes to control surfaces. Now I know this isn't a novice ARF, and I'm a novice, but why spend so much time on hinges and not on setting up control horns?
I also found some hardware missing. The "Jam Nuts" for the push rods were nowhere to be found. I ended up using nuts from personal inventory. And don't think they give you one screw extra, so don't drop or lose anything. Make sure you have some spare fasteners on hand. Also, this kit uses Phillip's head screws (blech). If I had it to do over, I'd convert them all to hex, but that would make this build a little more costly. However, this is a beautiful plane, and if you take care not to drop or strip anything, you won't have any worries.
I will have a build out list and total cost at the end of the build, but know that your life will be easier if you have some things on hand first:
- Epoxy - 30min and 5min
- CA - thick and thin
- Dremel (this build would have been a ton more tedious without it)
- Hobby Grade plywood (get an assortment)
- Hobby Knife
- Popsicle sticks
- 1/16 drill bit
- Jeweler's driver set (this kit uses a lot of small phillip's head screws)
- Denatured alcohol
- Napkins (for clean up)
- Masking tape
- Zip ties
- Velcro (the kit comes with some, but it's not pre-glued)
- A sharpie
Mounting the Engine
This is the engine side of the original firewall (upside down).
Hatch to reach the gas tank and anything you need to work on from the inside of the firewall... neat design.
The hatch is slotted and held on by two deceptively strong magnets
Closer view of the magnet placement
This is the inside of the firewall. When I took this picture I had already removed two of the blind nuts. I removed them by carefully prying them out with a slotted screwdriver. They were on raised disks that I had to sand down (Dremel is your friend). I also had to deal with the support stock running the length of the plane.
The "corners" were a bit tricky. I don't think I could have handled it without the Dremel.
Random picture of a blind nut (or at least that's what I've always called them).
At this point I had taken several images of the reinforcing process, but when I uploaded the images from the camera, for some reason they were corrupt. Don't know what happened, low light maybe, but I'll try to describe it as best as I can.
I had some 1/8 inch hobby grade plywood hanging around. By the way, that stuff is ehhhxspennnsive. I think it rivals gold in the per ounce category. I measured and cut the wood, then rounded it by sanding it with my Dremel. I had cut notches in the top to match up with the support stock running the length of the plane. This required me to test and fit several times.
I finally got it to dry fit perfectly, so I went ahead and mixed up some 30 minute epoxy. I spread an even layer over the entire piece, the fit it in the plane from the inside. The reason I reinforced from the inside will become clear below, I need to see the centering lines. If I reinforced from the outside I would have covered the centering lines up, and the engine would stick out beyond the cowl.
I clamped down the reinforced section and let it dry for several hours. It worked perfectly except that I was a little messy with the glue.
I mounted the engine onto the mounts. By the way, I did not use the mounts that came with the kit. Even though they were adjustable, I didn't feel comfortable using them knowing that I'm using an engine twice the size that's supposed to go in it.
So now it's time to make the template, to drill the new mounting holes. Again I used some plywood stock I had left over, but in retrospect, using a piece cardboard may have been easier and less costly.
Notice the blue masking tape on the engine. I used it to cover the ports in the engine that are susceptible to dust and debris. Masking tape works well because if used carefully, it will create a seal around the ports.
I used a small bit and an extension to make my marks
I could have used a smaller marker if I would have had one handy.... I made my marks along the outside edges of the mount.
Mount holes marked, I then used a straight edged to connect my lines... as crude as they are, it worked out.
It's important to mark you centering lines, and where the top is on your template. You may find yourself thinking, oh Sh!t, where's the top. Get this wrong and your holes won't line up. Originally that big hole was going to be my carb hole, but I decided to go with a round hole.
So here's what the new, reinforced inside looks like. So now it's time to reinstall the blind nuts. You do this by pushing your bolt through your new holes then tightening the bolt down until the blind nuts take hold.
So now the new mount holes are installed. I wanted to repair any damage done by making the hole. So I decide to mix up some 5 minute epoxy and fill the damaged areas and seal the edges around the hole... just for some peace of mind. I covered the new holes with tape. The old holes are exposed so I can fill them in.
Edges now sealed, I applied blue thread locker to the inside of the blind nuts and mounted the engine.
The rest of the images are of the completed engine install
Building the Tail
The building up of the tail, including dry fitting tail control surface servos and dry fitting/gluing the Horizontal stab and rudder, is actually the first thing the manual has you do after it has you collect all your materials. I'll try to follow the manual, as my workspace allows, from here on out but I wanted to make it clear that I didn't in this case. I found that due to my workspace, skipping around in the manual is necessary.
I didn't take any images of me dry fitting the servos. That's self explanatory. Once I pulled the servos out, I added a drop of thick CA in the holes left by the servo screws. The manual calls for thin CA but the thin stuff runs everywhere and is harder to control. If you use thick, then drive the screw in and pull it out, it serves the same purpose, but it takes a little more time.
Here I am pinning the horizontal stab. Once I got the measurement exactly the same on both sides I pinned the stab as close as I could to the rudder so that it couldn't move.
The manual actually has you temporarily mount the bottom wing. I'll explain why a little later. In order to mount the wing you have to glue in these two dowels. There are two sets of dowels in the bag. I needed the 25mm dowels (the shorter of the two). As you'll see in the next image, the dowels should stick out 1/4 " or 6mm. I glued them in using 30 minute epoxy. I think Five Minute Epoxy would have been better. I was done in two minutes, and now I had to wait about an hour to work with the bottom wing.
The bottom wing is bolted into these two blind nuts with nylon bolts. I was a little disappointed that neither blind nut was installed very well, and they pushed out every time I tried to install the lower wing. Nylon bolts are not known for their strength, so the thought of tightening one down to draw the nut into the wood did not sit well. I went and got a "C" clamp and pushed the nut into the wood. If they fall out again, I'll use a little epoxy and glue them in.
Here I am setting up to make sure my horizontal stab is installed straight.
There is center mark on the firewall. This is where I place the "T" pin to hold the string that's used to make sure both sides of the stabilizer are the same, thus making it straight.
On the end of the line I folded over a piece of masking tape and drew a line on it. You can slide the tape up and down the line until you get the exact measurement you need
Measure each side until both sides are exactly the same. This is how you know your stabilizer is true.
I used the outer most corner of the trailing edge of the stab to take my measurement.
This is why you install the lower wing. You want to make sure that your stab and wing are parallel. If not you press or lift lightly to make it parallel while the glue dries.
Time to install the hinges
Luckily, the wings come pre-hinged. The tail doesn't. It does come pre-slotted, but here I drilled a small hole using a 1/16 bit to allow the CA to wick.
Find the center of your hinge then place a T pin through the center then install it on the stab.
I installed the control surfaces but a screwed one side up. I was watching t.v. while I was building and didn't realize that the hinges were too far to one side on the stab. Not paying attention, I glued it up, and then I was screwed. So I took my razor knife and cut the hinges, and then went to work on cleaning out the slots. You have to be very careful because one wrong move and you ruin the part. I got the hinges cleared out of the slot, and after a trip to the hobby shop, I got the control surface mounted.
So I removed the lower wing and decided to finish the engine installation. This includes electronics, gas tank and it's plumbing, and all other hardware used in the operation of the engine. This is a departure from the manual due to the limited space that I have to work in. This way I can toss the fuse about without worrying about damaging control surfaces. Anyway.........
Completing the Engine Install
Up until now I've always used LiPo batteries as receiver packs, and regulated them down. But as my packs grow older (some being years old), the time to start replacing my inventory has long since passed. So... I decided to go with a lithium iron phosphate (LiFe) battery. After researching them some, I decided on the Team Orion 6.6v 4100 mAh. With a 6.6v battery, I don't have to regulate the voltage (read one less piece of electronics to stuff in this bird).
Now, do I need 4100 mAh? Probably not. But since this engine is double the power, and a lot heavier than the suggested engine, the bigger battery placed aft would offset some of the nose heaviness. Plus, I could fly for a really long time without worrying about a charge on the battery, an ancillary benefit. If it turns out to be tail heavy... I'll probably keep the battery for my Pitts Special, and drop the size some.
This is a look at my gas tank plumbing. I opted for a DuBro 10oz. tank with a metal Sullivan gas cap. The tank that came with the plane would work for the nitro (suggested) version of this plane, but I needed something a little lower profile so the push rods would clear. The DuBro tank was a perfect fit in the mount.
I'm using a DuBro in-line fuel filter which I've placed between the tank and the carb. I've read many dissenting opinions about this... i.e. one more failure point; will allow more air into the carb; your clunk filter should be enough, etc. I understand the rationale behind those opinions, but I look at that fuel filter as the last line of defense before sh!t goes terribly wrong. Many people use them without issue.
Anyway, the reason you see the line snaking around like that is because the distance between the tank and the carb was not great enough to add the filter. So I improvised a little. Though... looking at these pictures I see a couple potential issues. 1) I left a Zip tie off one end of the filter 2) I don't think I like the idea of a hard plastic, sharp zip tie holding my fuel line. I'll probably go with a Velcro strap.
The picture above and the one below shows the push rod guides for the throttle and choke epoxied into place, and the DuBro Ez connectors I installed on the carb's control arms. There was nothing "Ez" about this part of the build.
The stock push rod that came with the plane seemed flimsy to me. So I shlepped to to LHS and bought some DuBro 12" rods. By the way, 12" was the perfect length. I only needed 11" but I had some bending to do. That was the tricky part. I spent about 3 hours bending and checking. You have to have the control arm on the servo installed, and then you have make the rod you just bent fit into the "Ez" connector. If if doesn't fit, you have to remove everything, sand a bit and try again.
[glow=red,2,300]Make sure to use thread lock on Ez connector screws![/glow] 
This is the "Miracle" fuel dot and power switch.
The backside of that switch. Notice that it sticks out a bunch. If I hadn't already cut the hole for this, I would have installed it elsewhere, a little further aft I think.
Now it's time to mix up some 30 minute epoxy, so I can raise the throttle and choke servo mounts.
I used a total of eight Popsicle sticks (4 on each side). I need to raise this mount because the it sat below the gas tank. As it was, the throttle and choke push rods had to bend downward. So I raised the mount to take out the bend.
Installed. You might recognize those servos. I'm using a DS650 on the throttle. I like the way it feels. Smooth and fast. I just slapped an old DS620 on the choke. It just needs to do two things, open and close the choke. I went with standard servos to add a little more weight to counteract the engine and gas tank. If for some reason I find the plane to be tail heavy, these servos are the first thing to go.
I flipped the plane right side up and took a wider angle shot of how I set up the linkages
I used a piece of packing foam that came with the DLE and mounted the batter on top of it, then strapped it in with some Align straps. I know those things work. I used them on my 600 ESP and when I crashed it, the battery mount let loose, but they did not.
Again, I used some foam from the DLE packaging and mounted the IBEF.
Ignition mounted. There isn't the same amount of room in this plane that I had on the Pitts. You've got to squeeze things in where you can.
Tail Control Surfaces and Electronics
Since the elevator is dual servo controlled, and I had 3 Spektrum H5000 Mini servos hanging around, I decided to use them in the tail. They have a little more torque @ 6V than the mighty mini. I'm using them with a JR Matchbox system.
The manual kind of leaves you hangin' here. It was like... "OK" what do I do now. It shows you one tiny little picture that focuses on one control horn, and even then it barely gives you any information. It gives you no specific place to mount your control horns, nor does it give you push rod lengths. You have to measure everything out. I found myself looking at the picture on the box for a few minutes to try to figure out where the control horns go. You also have to cut the push rods to length, and solder the clevis' to the push rods. This is something I've never done before and found myself looking for help via internet search, and there really isn't much at a glance to help you with. You have to dig a little to find how to make up soldered clevis'.
I don't think I'm helping much here either. Since I had no hands free to take photos of the process of soldering clevis', I'll try to explain what I did without being too wordy.
Getting a straight shot. Here I'm marking the distance of the servo arm from the fuse
Transferring the mark from the fuse onto the elevator
I had already marked the center of this drill guide and now I'm lining it up with the mark on the elevator.
Using my hand and a 1/16 bit I drilled the two holes.
Installed
I bought some DuBro servo arms. According to the manual, the clevis should go in the lower hole on the servo arm, and the top hole on the control horn.
Here's the other side all made up and installed
The manual does somewhat cover how to make up the push rods. These are some of the materials I used to complete them. You might want to use a ruler or some measuring device, and a "Sharpie" for marking as well. I tried using a soldering Iron at first, but it wasn't getting the metal hot enough, so I switched to the mini torch. I had never worked with flux or silver solder before. Now, I can say I have, and that I suck at it. I was tempted to just make a bend at the end of the push rod and work it through the servo arm.
Import Note: There are a couple of schools of thought on what type of solder to use. I used what the manual called for (Stay Bright silver solder). However, there are many posts in other forums, and of course a huge debate complete with mud slinging and calling into question peoples metallurgy knowledge, about using standard 60/40 solder. People have used it with no issue for years to make up their push rods.... Let your conscience be your guide here.
I measured each push rod by getting everything 90
0 then measuring from the bottom hole on the servo arm to the top hole on the control horn. I had already screwed on the threaded clevis on the end of the push rod that had threads and then eyeballed a measurement using my finger and a sharpie to mark the push rod. I gave myself a little extra length in case I screwed up. Then I broke out the Dremel and cut off the excess push rod.
I cleaned up any burrs with my Dremel, then lightly sanded the end. I cleaned the entire push rod with denatured alcohol. Then I started the flux, heat, and tinning process. Once you get your end tinned, you just slide the clevis over the tinning and heat it up. I hit it with some more flux and a little more solder just to make sure the clevis was nice and solid. Wiped off the excess flux, and installed the linkage.
Since this is an ARF I wish they would have just made up the linkages for me. But then I would have missed the joy of burning my fingers on a hot push rod
All's well that ends well I guess. I didn't burn my house down.
Using a spare piece of plywood, and some Velcro, I created a wall to hang some of my electronics on.
I'm using a JR 9 Channel rx, and this is where I'm mounting the satellite.
Up close of the Matchbox. I've got a post about the matchbox in my Pitts build if you want to understand how it works. In short, it takes one channel and turns it into multiple sub channels (up to 4). Each of these numbers represents a servo and a function. I'm able to trim each one of the servos to get my throws exact.
Stuck some Velcro to it and I'll mount it on the wall in the background
Wing Control Surfaces and Electronics Installation
Once again the manual slacks on giving you even the slightest hint as to how to go about setting up your aileron controls. Not that I found it all that difficult, but some tips, or suggestions would have been nice. So I did it the best way I knew how. I guess they figure as long as you get your throws the same it doesn't really matter....
Just a little tip I picked up from Troy Built Models website. I use a soldering Iron to cut holes in my covering when the manual calls for me to do so. This not only cuts the covering, but also seals it so it doesn't peel.
This image shows the gluing of the servo mounts to the servo hatch. I used 30 minute epoxy and some spring loaded clamps (bag of 20 for $7 at Home Depot). Though this was my first time having to epoxy in the mounts, I understand why they did it. They give you multiple size mounting blocks for mini and standard size servos. If they pre-installed you mounts, you would have modify them to the servo size you choose. While gluing them is a bit of a pain the the a$$, and time consuming, I understand and appreciate why those chose to do it this way.
I didn't think I needed to explain the process of finding the right servo arm for each servo, and finding 90
0 for each arm. That's a standard process for Planks and Helis. I will say that having an extra battery and Rx comes in handy. I set up a "Test" aircraft in my radio and bound it to a spare 6 channel rx, and used it to get my servos to neutral. Luckily, JR servo arms fit Hitec servos.
Just a close up of one of the servos during the gluing process. If you were going to due this one at a time, I suppose 5 minute epoxy would be ok, but with 30 minute epoxy I was able to knock out all four at the same time.
You might notice that the servo is installed at an angle. Each hatch actually has guidelines. All you have to do is make sure the arm is lined up dead center in the slot.
In this build you will have to use servo extensions. Heat shrink tubing is the BEST way, in this case, to keep them from pulling apart. I know they square plastic connectors, and I like to use those where I can, but they are too cumbersome to pull through your wing. The square connectors catch on everything and won't fit through the holes provided in the wing.
Some images of the process. The easiest way for me was the pull a little, feed a little method.
Out through the other side. As you can see those holes are very small.
I used a 1/16 drill bit to drill out the holes.
CA'd the holes
Closed up the hatch
The above three images are of the process I used to install my control horns. Why the slotted the servo hatch at an angle... I don't know. I used a straight edge (a ruler in this case) along the inside edge of the slot and lined the base of the horn up with the straight edge. Then I pre-drilled the holes by hand using a 1/16 bit. Once the horn is installed, it's time to size and solder your linkage.
These images are of the finished upper wing.
I then hooked each wing up to the spare rx/battery and test model. I also hooked them up to the match box outside of the fuse so I could adjust my servos and control surfaces for neutral. Once I install the lower wing, there is no more adjusting of servos individually using the matchbox since I'll no longer have access to the matchbox.
Finishing Touches
Checking the neutral position and the travel of the elevator servors
This is the balancer that comes with the kit. Built it in a few minutes using CA
Finished! I had masking tape on the canopy because I just glued it.
This is how the balancer works. The balance point is 5 1/4" from the center of the leading edge of the top wing.
Just a hair nose heavy, but not bad.
Note about Landing gearSee this post:
rchelitalk.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=apbuildsmods&thread=4373&post=40336This is a DLE 20 build and it's important to get this correct if you want to use this engine. That is... if you are like me and land bouncy occasionally, you might end up spending unnecessary amounts of cash on props . The manual is correct and the struts mush be forward swept.
Final Thoughts
The first thought that really sticks out to me is that this plane would have been so much easier to build if I would have stuck within the engine parameters recommended by the manufacturer. There were many moments/hours spent scratching my head wondering, "OK, how am I going to do this?" You really have to rethink the whole front end, and the manual does you no good other than giving you an idea of the parts you have to work with.
In hindsight, I could have made that huge hole in the firewall smaller, but it did help alleviate some weight. With the right tool, I could have made the hole a lot cleaner too. I used a dull flat wood bit and it started bouncing right away. Using a saw bit probably would have been best. Though in the end, I'm pretty happy with the way the front end came out.
I used two JR Matchboxes to control a total of 6 servos (two elevators and four ailerons). This completely changed installing the wings. The manual calls for you to install the bottom wing first and the top wing second, but if you do that, there is no way to plug in your aileron servos without leaving your connectors in peril. So there was a choice I had to make, put the top wing on first, or go buy some six inch extensions and hope they don't come unplugged in flight or in set up. I get sketched out pretty easy so I opted for the former.
Putting the top wing on first caused issues of its own. It's really just sitting there balanced on the center brace, and if you're not careful, you'll break the wooden dowels that the brace is using for support. Four hands were better than two at this moment. However, using the set up I have now, makes removing the wings for transport a monumental task. So the wings aren't coming off. Luckily, my back seat folds down and opens up into my trunk. The wings are only 48" across, so in theory it should ride comfortably in he back. I hope no one else needs a ride.
Originally, I was all hyped up about the manual. There were certainly things I learned from it. But for all the newbie knowledge it offered, they really dropped the ball in the control surface department. I mean, they explain in detail how to center your horizontal stab, and also how to center hinges. These are two things that I'm sure a veteran already knows how to do, but they leave out any information on installing control linkage. It's a noticeable cliff that you come to.
I happen to think that your control surface setup makes or breaks how well an aircraft flies, and if it was paper they were trying to save, they could have done that elsewhere. I understand that two types of servos can be used in this plane, but guidance for each would have been useful. There are seven surfaces you need to control, and they address none of them. The only thing they do is give you advice as to what hole to put your clevises in on the servo arm. They even waste space showing you which holes they don't recommend. That's garbage teaching in my book. Even the "Vietnglish" manual that the came with my Pitts (made in Vietnam) spends an extraordinary amount of time on control surfaces. I now give this manual a 5 out of 10.
For those that attempt this modification, know that there is more than one way to build this plane. In it's current state my plane is heavy. It responds well to all stick inputs unless I'm in a steep fast dive. At this point I have to get on the elevator early. I think as long as you use high torque mini servos, you should be o.k. using mini servos all around. I know this would shave about 8 oz. out of my bird if I used minis. I used standards for the throttle and choke servos thinking I'd need the ballast. I also think if you are sparing with the epoxy and go lighter on the firewall reinforcement you can cut a little weight there as well. On the plus side, the plane at it's current weight tracks on rails. I can take my hands off the sticks and it will stay on course.
So if you're looking to do hard 3D with this engine, you need to watch your weight elsewhere in the build. If you just want to sport fly, maybe hang on the prop a bit, the added weight can be a comfort.
Anyway... Here's the final tally.
There are other supplies you'll need:
- 30 Minute Epoxy
- Thin CA
- Popsicle Sticks
- Hobby grade plywood (for fire wall and mounting surfaces)
- Soldering Iron or Mini torch
- 1/16 Drill Bit
- 1/8 Drill Bit
- Drill
- Various Standard Measurement Drivers
- Various Metric Ball end Drivers
- Dremel w/ Saw Attachment
- Heat Gun
- Fuel
- Two Stroke Oil
- Denatured Alcohol
- Tape
- Various sizes of Clamps
- Zip Ties
- Wire Cutters
- Napkins
- Thread Lock
- Mixing Cups
- Radio (this whole thing is pointless without one of these)
- Fastener Assortment
- Starter (or you risk your fingers flip starting)
- Battery charger
- Calipers
- Straight edge
- Scissors
.... and I'm sure there's stuff I'm missing. If I had to guess, I'd say I spent close to $100 making sure I had everything I needed to complete the project, and I'm fairly sure that's a low end figure.
Grand Total of what is actually in the Plane: $1560 (+/- $50)
Grand Total Less Items I've already priced in other builds: $1150 (+/- $50)
You could cheap this build out even more by shopping overseas (China). You could probably reduce the tab by 15% or so depending on your shipping options. I tried to support my LHS' where I could. I paid a few bucks more, plus tax, for things I could have purchased with free shipping and no tax from online vendors. I like to keep the Local guys around. They're great when you need something in a pinch. Even if they are a little more expensive.
Videos
Walk AroundThe MaidenEngine Break in w/ Modified Landing GearA support had to be added to the Landing gear due to weight. It worked perfectly. This flight was 12 minutes with another 2 minutes on the ground warming up (pumping throttle from zero to WOT). The Plane used 7oz of fuel with an engine temp of 180
0F. According to Jeff @ TBM the engine temps on DLE engines should be taken on the head, directly from the fins behind the exhaust. Temps should be taken directly after landing and should be not much more than 200
0F, but preferably 190
0F.
There are many hobbyist out there that use DLE engines, and a search will not bring up much solid information on engine temps. From those that discuss temps, there are varying answers. That's why I emailed Jeff @ Troy Built Models. He is their engine expert and works on them on a daily basis. There are those that feel temping is unimportant, and I can understand why they say this, because if you use your ear, you can get the needles close to perfect. However, temping is just one more tool in the tuning process.
All's well that ends well I guess. I didn't burn my house down. 
