I'm still waiting on an extension harness from RC Super Sales. Not his fault... it was mine. This heli is very big and they don't take into consideration that you may not want your receiver near your motor when they solder on the connectors to these ESC's. So... right before Kyle was about to send out my motor and ESC for my Xeon, I ordered the extensions and asked that he send them with my other package. He was really cool about it even though a caused him more work. He even refunded my shipping, which ... he didn't have to do and I didn't ask him to do.
Anyway, hopefully it will be here today, but I am going to post some pics of the build now. It just wont be finished. I took over 100 pictures narrowed it down a bit. So here ya go.. 61 pics:
Having the blade grips on the head, its time to complete the head.
The flybar is located in the same bag as the boom and torque tube
Make sure to measure out all links. I use calipers. The manual provides all the necessary measurements. Like in my 250 build if you get your measurements straight away there really is very little swash leveling you'll need to do.
I lock down the calipers then twist the ball links on to the rod until I get them to where they need to be. Twist and test... twist and test.
600 paddles are big!
The paddle control frame comes loosely assembled. You'll need to take it apart completely and threadlock the screws and add the link that I just measured above to the bar.
Once the paddle control frame is assembled, slide it on and insert the flybar. Make sure the set screws are facing up.
Here's where I ran into a little snag. The book says the measurement on the flybar from hub to paddle should be "about 145 mm" on each side. Well unless I wanted the paddles hanging on the last couple of threads on the flybar, that wasn't happening. 140 was the best I could do and feel that the paddles were safe. Having taken a paddle to the chest before, I like to play it safe.
The swashplate came assembled, but the balls were loosely fitted. I applied threadlock to my threads and tightened them down.
Again, the washout came loosely assembled, and again I took it apart and applied threadlock. This happens quite a bit in this build. Its really a good idea to take everything apart that's metal to metal and apply threadlock.
Attaching the head to the shaft is simple. Remember threadlock here.
Next couple of shots are of the completed head:
Starting the frame build
The frame is very easy to put together with the manual. The gears and anti rotation hub come completely assembled. I checked all the screws anyway and they were tight. Just check to make sure that it will spin the correct way.
Here's where my Guru build experience helps. Its fairly easy if you've never built before to think that these bearings should go in the same way. The shaft will fit through these if they are put in incorrectly and it may be until you spin it up that you realize your mistake. Make sure that the bearing mounts are placed in like this. You should be able to read the words while looking at the top mount from the top. You should be able to read the words while looking at the bottom mount from the bottom.
Make sure the sides of the frame have this part to the outside. Again you will be able to put it together the wrong way. So be mindful of orientation.
I'm not sure if they are like this on all Trex 600's but these numbers were on the outside of the frame. This was another way that I used to make sure that I had correct orientation.
After I got one side of the frame mounted, I then started mounting all the pieces to the side of the frame. Don't forget to screw in the servo mounting brackets. If you do, you'll be taking it apart to put them in
you could get away with mounting the the canopy mounts later, but I just did it at this point so I wouldn't forget.
Servo mounts from the outside... notice the washer on the bolt as well.
Time to add the other side
Don't forget to use threadlock when bolting metal to metal.
One thing I didn't do here and the book doesn't tell you to do it either is add the motor mount before you mount the other side. I should have done this. It wasn't really that hard to put it in after but it would have been easier to mount it first.
After I added the motor mount.
The elevator arm comes assembled, again take it apart, but before you apply threadlock and put it back together make sure that you screw in the Elevator Ball link. This is the BEST way to do this.
The arrows say it all
This is a very cool feature of this frame. Including the top, there are four platforms where your electronics can be mounted. Very well thought out idea. Make sure to add these two mounts at this point in the build.
Rear view
This is what the aileron and pitch levers look like. You'll need to add the linkage balls here.... don't forget threadlock.
The T-Rex letter should be facing forward. The arrow is pointing toward a set screw. I have left this loose and will tighten it once my servo arms are installed.
And that brings me to another point. I didn't have all my electronics when I started building this heli. Normally I'd get my servos all set up then finish the build, but I didn't do that in this case. So this is why I'm leaving this set screw loose. I haven't set up my servos yet. Also these are programmable servos so I will reversing and centering via the computer software. I will add pictures of that when I start this process.
There is linkage and servo levers to deal with inside the heli as well
Installed servo lever.
Added battery mounts. Time to add the skids
This is was a new one on me, but one that I really liked. Up until now, if I've needed to stabilize the skid I've had to use CA.
I thought this was a cool picture. Guru-Z Neon frame (300) next to the Trex 600 frame.
Taking a break right here .... be back and finish posting pics after lunch and a trip to the Hobby shop.
