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Post by r/c basher on Jan 17, 2011 12:36:15 GMT -6
Thats one thing that I like about my nitro rc cars Ive ran them before for an hour straight without having to recharge a single battery. You still have the rx battery but that lasts a couple of hours before needing recharging.
If I could only choose one, nitro or electric, it would be probably electric though because of the simplicity of it. You turn the radio on then plug in the battery and then run/fly and you dont have to worry about tuning, that and there isnt as many things to go wrong.
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 22, 2011 20:51:24 GMT -6
Just got a present to me from me ... woo hoo! I thought the 30 would be about 500 size, but it's bigger than my 600esp. I guess bigger than I thought is the right way to put it. The electronics are a bit old. The gyro is a JR G550t (doesn't say no longer available but it doesn't offer it anywhere either). The servos are DS811's (they no longer make them) But everything looks really clean on it. Looks like it was rarely flown. It certainly looks like its never been crashed. The head is in perfect condition without a scratch on it. In all, I think 250 shipped was a great price. He spent 30 bucks on the shipping.
Can't find the USB cable for my camera or I'd upload the pics I took. When I find them, I'll add them. Interesting linkage.
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 22, 2011 21:22:53 GMT -6
Mess is case by case. My Trex 600 comes down spotless except for some oil on the blades from getting inverted. It has a Hatori tuned pipe with a long deflector that keeps the smoke and oil off the heli. My Frenzy 50 gets some oil on the base plate and the back of the frame because the frame is bigger than the Trex and the exhaust deflector is very close to the heli. I hope you don't base your go/no go on a .30 sized nitro. No real power there. It will get you the basics though. You'll end up with a starter,fuel pump,glow warmer and stuff. After you get the nitro support stuff,get a good .50 or .90 nitro. Let me know when you get going. I think I could have matched that price for my Frenzy 50. OS Hyper 50 engine and your choice of a CY MP5 pipe or the Outrage Hyper Rage 50 pipe that's on it.All new servos and all.Savox titaniums. s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/ernie_mcdowell/Frenzy%2050/ |
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 22, 2011 22:05:05 GMT -6
Hey Ern!
Nah, not so much worried about wipin' shit down as I am creating a cloud of smoke and not noticing much difference in power. I really was hoping for something a bit smaller (engine to frame ratio that is).
I probably would have taken you up on that offer had I read your post after mine in the other thread. I'm going to take it all in. I know I'm tired of buying and charging batteries that last only a couple of seasons. The amount of money I've spent on chargers, batteries, and esc's is ridiculous. If you still have that frenzy in a month or so (after I've got all my essentials), If you'd let it go that cheap that will be something I can't turn down I suppose.
We'll talk for sure. I'll hit you up for some advice I'm thinkin'
later man
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 22, 2011 22:23:12 GMT -6
As far as money is concerned,I can go through a half gallon of fuel in one day easy.
The price of fuel is catching up with the price of lipos pretty quick.lol...
Almost $2.00 a tank.
But,my Trex 600 will fly over 13 minutes in idle up 2 and about 14-15 minutes in idle up 1.
I usually get two flights per tank because that's just too long in the air for me.
If I really beat on it,a 7-8 minute flight is average.
Since there is never any change in power throughout the flight,I tend to run out of fuel in the air ALOT!!!
My autos are really getting better.lol....
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 22, 2011 22:46:11 GMT -6
That $2.00 a tank number is for Torco 30% nitro.
You can get two cases of 15% nitro for the price of a case of Torco 30%.
After run oil isn't needed if it stays in a dry environment.
They can sit for months without hurting anything.
One conundrum.If you use a fuel magnet,you need to keep fuel in the tank so it doesn't dry out.This will eat up the fuel line in the tank.
I have a regular steel klunk in my main fuel tank and a fuel magnet in the header tank.
My heli has a full tank at all times.
This pushes the exhaust fumes out of the fuel tank.
Exhaust is more corrosive than the fuel somehow.
At the end of the day,I fire it up with the fuel shut off.This runs the engine dry.That helps.Nitro will pull moisture from the metal in the engine and help it rust.
You won't have to worry about rust if it runs a couple times a year.
Just change the fuel line every year.Especially inside the tank where it gets fuel on the outside of the line as well as inside.It is breaking down twice as fast as the fuel line outside the tanks.
When you first get started,buy a spare glow plug for every gallon of fuel.
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 22, 2011 23:07:15 GMT -6
I also use a 6.6 volt LiFe battery for my RX.
No need for a voltage regulator that way.
Maybe a step down for the tail but I don't use one.
Careful though.
A 6.6 volt LiFe puts out the same voltage til the moment it's dead so it's hard to check it between flights.Best to just charge it every four or five flights if it needs it or not.
I actually started my heli once and the battery went dead right that moment.Swash wouldn't move and it wouldn't spool up.
Wouldn't shut down either.I had to shut the fuel off to kill it.lol...
Lucky I didn't get it airborne.lol.....
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 23, 2011 18:53:04 GMT -6
thanks ern, bookmarking this page!
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 28, 2011 22:30:58 GMT -6
Bought the Starter, bought the glow starter, bought the fuel and pump. I changed the gyro out (JR G550t) to a mini g I had lying around. Popped in the 9 channel rx..... guess what I'm doing? Waiting on friggin batteries to charge.
The hirobo came with a JR 2400 mAh 4.8V NiCad flat pack. Luckily my Tx charger (JR X9303) has a rx charger on it as well. Also, my glow starter has to be charged. Initial charge, 8 to 12 hours. ::smh::
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 29, 2011 9:04:47 GMT -6
Irony huh?
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 29, 2011 9:24:07 GMT -6
ya think? I could have put a regular "C" battery in the glow starter, but I'd have to charge it sometime. So.... anyway, all charged up now. My only problem is that I can't get the dean's connectors on my starter and my battery to connect ::falls backwards:: I bought the Align starter... maybe it's because i'm using "Chean's" connectors (Chinese Dean's). I'll go buy some real Dean's today, see if that helps. |
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Post by akphill on Jan 29, 2011 11:35:55 GMT -6
I used deans on my align starter and hooking the battery up was really tough to get the deans hooked up the the starter but I finally did get it hooked up but was a chore and I used an onboard glow starter no waiting for glow bat to charge
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McKrackin
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Post by McKrackin on Jan 29, 2011 13:54:03 GMT -6
I have an Align Super Starter and it is a beeotch to plug in with a real Deans.
I use a Hyperion 2200mAh 3S and it's a snug fit anyway.
On a good note,I've only had to charge my starter battery a couple times in a couple months and my glow warmer lasts forever.
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Doozer
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Post by Doozer on Jan 29, 2011 22:58:32 GMT -6
Everybody I've spoken to, has had problems with the deans connector. I went to my LHS and bought some real deans. While It didn't go on easy, with a little more force than should be required, it went on.
So I bought the starter it's own battery, and charged it. While charging, I started giving the canopy a new paint job. I removed all the decals, then sanded the bleach bottle plastic with some 320. It's getting the tiger stripe paint job. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
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