Couldn't pass this up: Sukhoi su-31 .40-.46

[Doozer]

Normally I like to build my own planes, but I couldn't pass this up:

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2016110



Got it for $160 with all the electronics (rx included), battery, prop, and engine. The electronics and engine alone were worth the price ... but, I just put this on back order:

www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/3_426_1533/products_id/247629/n/Evolution-10GX-10cc-2-Stroke-Gas-Engine



it's a direct fit.

I'm not gonna even bother buying nitro fuel. Supposed to be in stock 11/01 so I figure I'll have it in the air by Early December at the latest.

I know I haven't been around much. I've gone back to school @ ASU and I'm taking 5 classes, plus work, so my time's really been limited. I'll have most of December off, so that will be the time to install the engine and fly. I had to put my ultimate 50 plans on hold because I had to dip heavily into my savings for school. Hopefully it will pay off.

[Doozer]

Got an email from A Main that the EVO was in stock... it shipped today. should be here Saturday. So I'll probably start working on it when it gets here. Don't know how much time I'll have to spare but I'll post pics of my progress.

Been flying the Sukhoi in the sim. Fun plane to fly. Deceptively slow. Landing needs power. Can't wait to fly it for real.

[akphill]

Isn't this one smaller than what you usually fly
Very nice looking plane

LOL need some build pics or setup as the case may be

[Doozer]

yep, if you don't count the UMX Beast its my smallest plane. The Sukhoi is a .40 but, the wingspan is 55". The wingspan on my Bipe is 48" and it's a .60. The EVO is a direct fit as far as dimensions, but it's a little more power than required. The OS .46 is around 7.5cc and the EVO is 10cc. I've watched some break-in videos, and was a little surprised to see tubing from the pipe to the fuel tank. I've not had to do that with any other gasser. Also I'm a bit leery of flying without a filter on the carb (AZ dust is a mofo).

I'll post pics of the install in this thread. Shouldn't be much to it though. I ordered another cowl from Tower just in case the holes in the current cowl don't line up for some reason... that hurt a bit because I don't like using Tower due to all the gimmicks they try to trick you into at the time of the sale. Can't just rip through a sale with them, you have to pay close attention or the next thing you know your getting magazines and are a member of a price club.

[akphill]

Yep know what mean about tower I wont buy from them directly ever
Even have there emailersmarked as spam

[Doozer]

Woot! It's here. Very small. Couple of nice things carb is linear, not butterfly. That means I can have a gasser with a linear throttle curve (very nice). Manual is nice,and.... A Main sent me a T-Shirt (score!). Might start this evening, not sure, but here's an unboxing video:

[Doozer]

Want to add a couple of things...

After I read the manual I was thoroughly impressed. This is not a broken English manual. With pictures and text they take you through a complete engine installation including linkage set up. Anyone that's read my builds knows that I use Coleman Camping Fuel and Royal Purple in my gas engines. I probably wont here. It says specifically to use 87 to 93 Octane, and "Do not to use Amsoil Synthetic oil in any form." Even though I don't use Amsoil Synthetic I'm wondering if they mean all sythetics... the "in any form" part is what has me puzzled. Plus, this is not a Walbro carb, so this is kind of uncharted territory. I'm going to see if I can get some clarification. I would love to use Coleman so I can work on, and store, this plane inside.

[Doozer]

It's installed, but not ready to gas and go yet. I want to hear from Horizon about the Coleman fuel. Also, I just ordered a dual switch for my ignition battery and my electronics battery. Even though I have a plane that flies just fine with an IBEF I'm not willing to take the risk of interference. So I'm going to have to wait for that. Neither of my local hobby shops had one.



Here are some pics:

OS 46 and Evolution 10GX Side by side...guess which one is which.


Drop in fit


Vent Tube for pressure




Mounted the ignition box here; engine side of the firewall, top of the nose.




Everything fits nice. Didn't need a new cowl. All the cuts were a perfect match. Guess I'll have an extra


Had to drill a hole in the firewall to run the power to the ignition switch (that I don't have yet).

[akphill]

that is cool setup can't wait to see a run up

[Doozer]

Ok, so here's the PM I got back from Craig at horizon:

Hi Rob,

I checked with the engine team and the first comment they had was to not use the Coleman fuel in your 10cc. Due to its lower octane rating you will not get the stated performance from the engine. They suggested 100LL (aviation fuel) might be an option to help with the odor of pump automotive gasoline.

Regarding the oil, we have not tested with Royal Purple. Based on their statements and descriptions it should work fine and of course, use it at the ratios noted in the engine manual.

I hope this helps and that the 10GX gives you many happy hours of flying. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Craig

Now... I've heard the performance argument before about Zenoahs and DLE. What I was looking for was "absolutely not because it will damage the engine," but that's not how I'm reading this. Gonna try Coleman first, but I have to mix it in a separate can. I mix the DLE's and Zenoah @ 30:1 and this engine requires 20:1. Also, I found it interesting that one of the developers of this engine is also the Zenoah and Saito developer as well. Thus, by the transitive property of equality, the Evolution 10cc should run on Coleman.

Now I need my switch.

[Doozer]

So here's the scoop on the muffler pipe issues direct from Pete Bergstrom the HMFIC of Saito, Evolution, and Zenoah @ Horizon:

"We made some notes in the engine manual regarding the muffler mounting bolts and the long bolt in the muffler tube. The muffler mounting bolts can be tightened down after the first flight and they will hold very well. The long muffler body bolt needs to be tightened after each flight for the first three times. After this it too will stay tight. Do this by loosening the lock nut, tighten the bolt from the front and then retighten the lock nut.

Pete"

As far as the Spark plug wire coming loose:

[Doozer]

Got my switch, but still some things I have to have, the game's on, it's dark outside, and we have a few new neighbors since I've done an after dark fire up. I'm going to go looking for some smaller RX packs. I want to use LiFe batteries. I also need some new Coleman and I'll probably get a different looking can so I don't confuse the two.

I rerouted my plumbing because I moved the fuel dot back away from the engine on the other side of the firewall. There's been a lot of talk in the other forums about the shaking and the heat. So, I decided that the Tygon kinda flapping around inside the cowl, with a hot head, probably wasn't such a great idea. I also got the fuel tank to sit correctly in it's place, but that meant I had to reroute the throttle linkage. But, I think I've got everything where I like it now. So I'm going to balance a 10X6 prop tonight. So it's quite possible I get a maiden in tomorrow, but for sure this weekend.

[akphill]

Sounds like your coming right along with the plane
not really understanding the fuel problem flapping around causing a problem is that inside the tank or the whole tank flopping around

[Doozer]

oh, yeah I guess I was a little vague. The fuel dot came attached to the cowl, so the refill fuel line was on the engine side of the firewall. There was extra fuel line (so I could pull it out)and that would be flapping in the breeze uncomfortably close to a very hot head. The fuel tank was not in it's "cradle" and was being supported by foam. That left the a$$ end of the fuel tank higher than the front. So I fixed that, but had to reroute my throttle linkage. I suppose that's why the fuel tank was where it was, but I found a better way.

I went out this morning and bought a checkered decal for the bottom part of both wings. I also bought two new life batteries and a prop nut. I liked the aluminum spinner but it was kind of big and would block some of the air flow to the engine. I got the Coleman and a gas can, so right now I'm on charge detail. I'm charging everything including my starter. So hopefully, I'll be cranking it up sometime this afternoon.

[Doozer]

Coleman and Royal Purple Also, the prop nut was too small and my starter couldn't grip it. Had to put the spinner back on. And... Because I changed the way the fuel tank sits, the vent tube goes less than half way up inside the tank. So I could only put a small amount of fuel in it... ugh!!! Pretty sure I've done that before.

Here's some interesting information I'll pass on from a thread at RC Universe. This is directly from a Horizon Rep:

You can refer to your engine manual for more detail, but maybe Ican briefly answer your questions here.

1. We discuss flying your model for break-in, but many have decided to break-in the engine on the ground. On the heating cycle, make sure the engine gets above 170°F and stays below 330°F. I would suggest pulling the engine back into a cooling cycle around 250°F while on the ground. The exact length of time that you run it at full throttle doesn't matter too much, but make sure that the engine gets above 170 and that's when it is "loosened" up. It may only be 30 seconds, but do this for the first tank of fuel at least.

2. In the manual we suggest using a synthetic, but our wording may have confused some people. Use a high-quality oil, whichever you choose (conventional or synthetic) and be sure to mix it at the recommended 20:1 ratio.

3. We have posted previously an RPM chart for different prop sizes that we have tested. This should only be used as a guideline, not a minimum. Rather than hunting for a number, Iwould suggest reading the manual section on tuning the high speed needle and just be sure that the engine is tuned properly for break-in. What's important here isn't limiting the RPM, but rather making sure the engine gets to operating temperature during break-in so that the piston and liner can grow into a proper fit.

Thanks,
Jimmy