Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Apr 8, 2010 5:36:07 GMT -6
Why don't you check your 2 in 1 again if the tail motor is variable speed it has to be PWM (pulse wave modulation)it will read straight DC on a normal meter because it is not fast enough to read the half on half off pulses. You could still use a converter but it would have to be a high speed converter. Ray
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Post by cubusaddendum on Apr 9, 2010 3:45:42 GMT -6
Why don't you check your 2 in 1 again if the tail motor is variable speed it has to be PWM (pulse wave modulation)it will read straight DC on a normal meter because it is not fast enough to read the half on half off pulses. You could still use a converter but it would have to be a high speed converter. Ray yeah I thought it would be PWM too (Pulse Width Modulation), but the 2BLC board told me otherwise. Could be the modulation scheme is too tight for that board to pick it up. Either that or E-Flight have smoothed the output with an RC network.
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Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Apr 9, 2010 18:42:06 GMT -6
The system that I am using would cure all those problems and you could use your stock TX. It is not near as hard as some of you other builds and with stock parts can still look factory. I am using a 2900KV C10 8 grams a trex 250 clone (Dynam) slider and blade grips. and a $3 dynam servo. It reacts and works just like a belt or shaft driven tail and no special programming this could be done with a 4 channel radio. Ray
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Post by cubusaddendum on Apr 10, 2010 4:49:43 GMT -6
The system that I am using would cure all those problems and you could use your stock TX. It is not near as hard as some of you other builds and with stock parts can still look factory. I am using a 2900KV C10 8 grams a trex 250 clone (Dynam) slider and blade grips. and a $3 dynam servo. It reacts and works just like a belt or shaft driven tail and no special programming this could be done with a 4 channel radio. Ray Sounds good - I've been reading your other posts about it. I take it that you send the throttle servo signal to both ESCs and use the rudder servo signal (connected via the gyro) to adjust the pitch of the tail blades? On another matter I took apart the EFLA308H 2-in-1 module (which BTW I don't recommend), and the prognosis on converting the mixer signal is not good. - The red wire is tapped direct from the 11.1V power rail. It contains no signal at all. - The black wire is sending a inverted PWM pattern that is smoothed by a 220uF capacitor and a zener diode (to protect against back-EMF from the brushed motor). I've tried to tap the inverted PWM signal from before the capacitor, as I thought that the potential difference between that and the +ve supply rail would give me a signal the 2BLC converter could lock on to. So far no luck. It's fiddly work!
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Raygun
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FIRST 30 MEMBER
The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few
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Post by Raygun on Apr 10, 2010 7:41:46 GMT -6
I hooked my tail ESC to the Aux channel and slaved it to the throttle so I had more control of what it did. But after experimenting with it the same results could be obtained by a Y on the signal wires of both esc's on the throttle channel. You still have to remove the center wire of the tail esc. Ray
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Post by cubusaddendum on Apr 10, 2010 9:34:32 GMT -6
I hooked my tail ESC to the Aux channel and slaved it to the throttle so I had more control of what it did. But after experimenting with it the same results could be obtained by a Y on the signal wires of both esc's on the throttle channel. You still have to remove the center wire of the tail esc. Ray So "Yes" then lol. I will investigate collective tail pitch once this current project is over. Let's have some video of your mod!
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Post by fusionsx00 on Sept 5, 2010 7:07:08 GMT -6
SO HAS ANY ONE TRIED THE BRUSHLESS CONVERTOR? www.aeorc.com/english/index.php?product-210.htmlI USED THIS ON MY CRAPPY HONEY BEE, AND IT WORKED OK BUT IM NOT SURE ABOUT USING THIS WITH THE SR, I KNOW YOU CAN GET THE CONVERTOR ALONE, THEN USE A PHX 10 AMP , THEN BL MOTOR
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Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Aug 26, 2011 7:30:11 GMT -6
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Post by flyinwalenda on Nov 2, 2011 18:11:16 GMT -6
Hi, New member here and new to cp helis but have been flying fixed wing for decades. Anyway , I picked up a Blade SR hoping to use it as a stepping stone to a 450. Right now I feel like stepping all over it! I've been trying to fly it with the stock transmitter and I just can't seem to get a hold of it. I've got the 2-1 and gyro set to keep the motorized tail/nose steady(as steady as it will get) but it seems like I'm in a huge fish bowl with it banking l-r and pitching fore and aft...can't seem to get it trimmed out so the bowl is smaller. End up bailing out and landing a bit hard bending feathering shafts, etc... I've read that putting this on a DX7 would help. I've looked at several set-ups and I've been reading lot's of good info but to be honest my head is spinning. Does anyone have a good beginner set-up for the Blade SR on a DX7 ? Thanks, Brian
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Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Nov 2, 2011 18:26:45 GMT -6
Change the o ring in the head to blade 400 o rings and add another shim or two. then try these settings it flys like a whale out of water with the stock TX.
3 Servo's 120 degrees Aile +60% Elev +60% Pit. +35%
All travel adjustments 100%
Aile DR/Expo 100%/30+ Rudd DR/Expo 100%/Lin Elev DR/Expo 100%/30+
Pitch Curves Norm - L=41.5%, 1=46.0%, 2=50.0%, 3=75.0%, H=100% Hold - L=0, 1=25.0%, 2=50.0%, 3=75.0%, H=100.0% ST 1&2 - L=0, 1=25.0%, 2=50.0%, 3=75.0%,H=100%
Throttle Curves Normal - L=0%, 1=36.5%, 2=66.5%, 3=75.0%, H=100.0% - play with these settings but a good starting point ST-1 & ST-2 - L=100.0%, 1=88.5%, 2=75%, 3=88.5%, H=100% - Servo Reversing as follows
Thro=N, Aile=N, Elev=R, Rudd=R, Gear=N, Pit.=R, Aux2=N
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Post by flyinwalenda on Nov 2, 2011 18:42:30 GMT -6
A whale out of water is a good analogy! Already stiffened-up the head as you stated . I also plugged the gyro into ch5 of the stock TX to dial it in better but I don't think I'm getting close to that page yet. Read that between 12'oclock and 5'oclock on the ch5 knob was the heading hold settings so I had it at the 2'oclock position.
Thanks for the settings. I will try it tomorrow on the DX7 and see .
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Post by flyinwalenda on Nov 3, 2011 17:31:15 GMT -6
WOW , what a difference ! Programmed a DX7 with these settings , bound it to the SR, checked over everything and took it up tonight. It's like a different machine compared to my tribulations with the stock transmitter. It was a bit windy but had it up in hover quickly and my fishbowl was reduced in size to about 10' and I had that pretty much trimmed out before landing. Second flight I had a steady tail in hover and did some lazy circles. Third flight did some slow banked turns until the swash plate split apart (probably from the early-on hard landings)and I had no control. Some damage but it will fly again shortly. Now I will look forward to flying this again! Thanks!
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Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Nov 3, 2011 19:27:04 GMT -6
You can play with those settings and tune it too your liking. The Toilet bowl effect is probably a bent flybar. Good to hear you got it flying decent mine was like a cow in outer space when I first took it up.. Ray
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Post by flyinwalenda on Nov 3, 2011 20:33:11 GMT -6
I thought the normal throttle curve settings might be a bit much but it feels OK. Gets off the skids much quicker than with the stock tx and it doesn't seem to have as much neg pitch when throttling down. I will adjust them a little once I get some (now decent) practice in!
By the way, has anyone figured out what the factory program is on the stock tx ?
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Raygun
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Post by Raygun on Nov 3, 2011 20:42:35 GMT -6
I think it is alot of negative expo that gives that sluggish feel the chopper reacts quicker than the TX will let you counter for its wild reaction. I like positive expo better that allows you to react quick when it decides to split on its own.. Ray
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